If I could afford myself luxury, I’d probably take that. It’s not to say I’m not a go-getter. I very much am especially when I set my mind to it. But I don’t push things not easily within my means. In the meantime, I look at the beauty of rustic finds and being close to nature and community. That’s the reason I fell in love with Siem Reap, the land of the majestic Angkor Wat. There’s not much in their city or from their countryside, you’d actually feel that it’s a developing country (so Third World), but there’s so much culture and history in the place and people –it opens yourself up to what living is… a collection of struggles and triumphs.
Siem Reap’s laidback atmosphere, coupled with experienced culture that’s intense in survival, endeared me to it. Despite having gone through a really depressing history, people here can give a smile from their heart to visitors from foreign land. It’s a city where living is cheap, where liking something doesn’t involve calculations in your head… where one can thread the day by the heart or gut. At least, that was my experience.
I still love Siem Reap but I think I took in a lover with Bali.
I Almost Never Met My Lover
I didn’t think I’d be doing another Asian trip this soon since I told myself that I would refrain from traveling Asia and save up for a big Europe trip Q3-Q4 this year. But I couldn’t resist when Maddie invited us to join her and her cousin Rexie to a Singapore-Bali trip. I always have fun when my Maddie is around. We paint the town red enjoying each other’s company. We’ve had so many little adventures in Pampanga, the beautiful Anawangin and a heritage Ilocos Norte region tour and mis-adventures (mischievous?) in the Metro. It would be great to experience an out-of-the-country trip with her and with a “group.”
The first few days were spent in Singapore. We bonded with Madz Day 1 and 2 in Singapore but Day 3 and 4 she met with her sister who just flew in. That was the time we only got to spend together since her cousins’ group had other plans. I didn’t mind because at the end of it, I really enjoyed reconnecting with Bubba in Singapore and Bali. The last two days and 3 nights were spent in Bali. I was excited about Bali, it being my first trip there but I didn’t expect that I would develop quite the affection for the city.
We touched down late Saturday night in Bali. We had some dollars exchanged in the airport to tide us over. Exchange rate was pretty low at USD 1 to 8,700 Rupiah (instead of USD 1 to IRP 9,290). Grabbing the airport cab wasn’t difficult. Just pay at the airport cab counter (IRP 55,000 or approx. PHP 250), which was just right outside.
15 minute ride to the Legian area where the Vilarisi hotel is located. On the way, the cab driver offered his services as a private car service if we plan to tour around Bali the next day. He ticked off sites to see but we already know pretty much which we wanted to visit and asked if he can follow our itinerary. He said yes and we agreed on a price and time to meet the next day.
Vilarisi Hotel
Vilarisi Hotel is located in Jalan Melasti/Lebak Bena 15x Legian, Bali, Indonesia. It’s right at the border of Kuta and Legian. Kuta, which reminds me of Station 2 of Boracay, is the most crowded place in Bali being the biggest party and clubbing venue. Madz and her cousins and cousin’s friends (5 gals) decided to book a hotel right smack in Kuta, named Kuta Town House, owned and managed by an Australian who relocated in Bali. I wanted to stray off the noisy area and just go there on my call when I feel like to that’s why we decided to book in Vilarisi.
Across Vilarisi Hotel
Vilarisi is a budget hotel, clean and well maintained, where Kuta beach, shopping centers and nightlife are nearby. The hotel has a touch of traditional Balinese architecture that has a mix of modern and ethnic interiors and a garden style for outdoor breakfast/dining. The lobby and restaurant have a blend of Balinese and Javenese stone carving and painting. Room charge per night was about USD 32.
Vilarisi Hotel
Jalan Melasti / Lebak Bena 15x Legian – Bali – Indonesia
Telephone 62 361 768010 Facsimile: 62 361 768012
Email: info@vilarisi.com
Bound for Ubud
We quickly grabbed breakfast at the hotel café (garden table outside) and noticed that a lot of Europeans were staying in the same hotel.
9:30 AM was the agreed time to meet but I-Made, cab driver, was 15 minutes late. Although I’m very particular with meeting time, I didn’t let it ruin the beautiful morning in Bali. To our surprise, he arrived with a new Avanza mini-van, which is to our advantage than the old car he drove the evening before that had a musty smell.
We were supposed to hire a private van (Avanza as well, more leg room for Bubba) but decided to just go with I-Made since his price was much lower. So lucky us! It was such a treat talking to I-Made too because he spoke good English and was Bali-born and such an easy fellow to talk to.
Goa Gajah
The first stop of the day was a famous landmark in Ubud where local worshippers also visit. Goa Gajah dates back to the 11th Century and is also known as “The Elephant Cave,” named after the Elephant River (Sungai Petanu).
You pay IRP 6,000 at the gate and they will lend you a “sarong” if you’re in shorts or skirts. Goa Gajah still has the temple inside and therefore requires proper clothing to enter as a sign of respect. Bubba got a sarong while I put on my pink maxi dress over the dress I was already wearing!!! Bubba kept teasing that I looked Korean with my attire.
We kept laughing photo after photo. I know, I know, my combo attire looked ridiculous but I didn’t want to cut time to go to the change room 
So please be very forgiving.
The exterior of the cave had massive carved faces and a mouth for an entrance that was very narrow. It’s such a small cave enveloped with darkness except for the lighted candles inside where shrines at both ends stand.
Ancient Stone Relics
Bathing Pools
Pura Goa Gajah
Peliatan, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Admission: IRP 6,000
Open Daily: 8AM-5PM
Botanical Garden
Botanic Garden describes itself as a palace with the sky as roof and many different rooms, secret chambers, galleries and staircases. It is a lush and tranquil sanctuary just 1.2 kilometers from the heart of Ubud. The Garden serves as a unique tourism destination as well as a retreat for Ubud’s residents.
Pathways and steps join five hectares of natural ravine that include an Orchid Garden, a vast collection of ferns, palms, bamboos and tropical trees, Bali’s first Maze, an Islamic Garden, Amphitheater and other features. The Amphitheatre of the Garden can be rented as a venue for weddings and other events.
Founded by German writer Stefan Reisner, the Botanic Garden Ubud was established to safeguard Bali’s precious flora and enhance environmental consciousness.
From a few people in Goa Gajah to this quiet solitude in Botanical Grden, it was great to have a standstill moment.
I stood in the middle of the meditation point and relished the fresh air. I look up and see the sun smiling down at me in the spaces where the ray’s gleam touches my face.
It took us only 15 minutes to go around the garden. That short time though felt lasting because the silence and tranquility-scene brought calmness in my body and mind.
Botanical Garden
Kutuh Kaja, Ubud (80571), Bali, Indonesia
P.O. Box 37
Phone: +62 (361) 970951
Fax: +62 (361) 971 165 / 970 951
Email: info@botanicgardenbali.com
Both the Goa Gajah and Botanical Garden visits bought newness to my otherwise regular morning, giving me moments communing with nature.
Bebek Bengil Dirty Duck Diner and a Theme Song
Many many thanks to Jana who emailed me and provided most of the places to go to and must-visit restaurants in Bali!!! Her information was really helpful and descriptive –I enjoyed her suggestions! It probably also helped that we appreciate the same things/food. I can’t discount Bubba the much-due credit –merely due to the fact that most of the Bali research he did on his own proved to be so useful too.
Bebek Bengil Restaurant was first opened in 1990, as what their signage claims. The name of the restaurant came about when one tropical monsoon morning, a flock of ducks from the rice field in the area ran quacking into the restaurant. They supposedly left muddy webbed footprints all over the place while it was in the closing stage of construction. Being their very first guests in droves, they decided to name the diner after them, which is quite cute if you ask me.
The place was bigger than how it looks from the outside. There are two general areas for dining and separate huts for more privacy. We sat in the area near the rice field-green scenery.
On the Table
Bebek Bengil Crispy Duck IRP 68,000 (PHP 340)
Half a duck steamed in Indonesian spices and then fried for a crispy finish with choice of sautéed potatoes and a side salad or steamed rice and Indonesian vegetables.
The brown fowl with glistening crispy skin and very lean duck meat was served with rice and vegetable side dishes. It has to be the crispiest duck Bubba and I ever tasted. Bubba almost didn’t want to share as he kept pulling at the meat, one bite after the next. Quite primitive with his bare hands but goes to show how much he enjoys the duck. Savor a decadently rich skin where taste is divine and almost melts in your mouth.
Chicken Kebab Pepper Rice IRP 53,000 (PHP 265)
The kebab with alternating skewered chicken meat and vegetables was served on a white plate with lemon rice. With Bebek Bengil satisfying my expectation, I didn’t expect much of the chicken kebab, other than it not being dry. It was grilled to a gourmet’s delight with creamy peppery mushroom sauce that had a hint of Bleu Cheese.
Ubud Street Cocktail IRP 25,000 (PHP 125)
Blend of pineapple, mango, mint, lemon and some liquor
Great to get a squeeze of fresh lemon/orange to wash the cholesterol-taste and spiciness off your tongue.
The wait staff was clad in a traditional Balinese get-up and their service was adequate. Bebek Bengil made such an impression that we created a hymn for it. “Bebek Bengil… Bebek Bengil… Bebek Bengil” with body swinging from side to side. It was like a mantra hymn. Ask me about the hymn’s tune when you bump into me 
A song emerges that triggers this beautiful memory –am I really getting attached to Bali? I’ve known her for a short time.
Bebek Bengil Restaurant
(Dirty Duck Diner)
Phone: 62-361-975-489
Padang Tegal, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Anthony Bourdain’s Bali Special on No Reservations
Neka Art Museum
We only went around the ground floor area and decided not to go inside. The sight of the delicious ribs across the street already took our concentration.
Time check: 3PM. Last meal we had was only 15 minutes ago but we are raring to get our hands on some ribs!
Getting Down and Dirty at Naughty Nuri’s
Warung in Indonesia means small casual restaurant. Naughty Nuri is like a hole-in-the-wall resto with the exterior looking like a small unassuming shack fronted by a smoking barbecue grill. But inside which is composed of two dining rooms, it feels like a pub with the walls adorning chalkboards with their menu and framed newspaper clippings about Naughty Nuri.
The dining space is definitely limited and the temperature outside is almost the same as the inside with the ceiling fan succumbing to the summer heat. It’s hard to get seated that’s why we shared the table with four other strangers. Jana’s advice was to order a plate per person, no matter how intimidating the ribs might look like at first. Our excuse of not heeding that advice was we barely digested what we just consumed.
On the Table
Martini IRP 90,000 (PHP450)
Bubba also researched that Naughty Nuri serves the best vodka martini in the world (whether that’s accurate, it must be at least the best in Bali)! Bubba ordered that and it was served first.
The wait staff shakes the container in front of us and Will Smith’s “Getting Jiggy With It” song comes to mind. She swiftly pours the cocktail up to the brim of the martini glass and instructed me to drink it. I sipped a little and she poured the rest of what was left in the container in.
The martini goes down very smoothly but it was without doubt packing a punch. It was a delightful martini setting a strong hit.
Fried Potatoes IRP
Barbecue Pork Ribs IRP 85,000 (PHP400)
I forget if we specified what ribs we ordered but what came to the table seemed to be beef ribs because the bones are bigger than your usual pork ribs. There are three choices, pork, beef or lamb ribs. I was intrigued to try the barbecued lamb ribs.
I expected the ribs to take some time since they cook it to order. But it was a short 15-minute wait when both our ribs and the other couple’s ribs arrived. Noticeably for the newer customers, it was a longer wait.
A Color-Washed-Out Portrait of Naughty Nuri’s Guests
The perfectly smoked barbecued ribs exude sweet, smoky and piquant flavors. I didn’t fight the urge to grab it with my hands (more primitive than Bubba actually) –staining my small fingers with the barbecue sauce and charred flakes.
The ribs were well-coated with their special barbecue sauce from meat to the bones. Fall-off-the-bones tender ribs… it seems like my barbaric hunger for it will never end. Mighty impressive barbecued meats. A meat-lover will certainly appreciate this place since Australian Lamb Chops are also available.
I love washing down the ribs with the martini. Best ribs, best martini. What more can you ask for? Smoked ribs and smooth martini –a combo oozing with much sex appeal. I couldn’t help but flirt back.
Service was so-so but nothing to crow about. It’s an open shack teeming with patrons after all. Their tasty specialty is indeed worthy of praise –as New York Times and Anthony Bourdain have featured them. Loose your self in the most delicious grilled barbecue pork ribs in this side of the world at Naughty Nuri’s. Definitely something you’ll be raving about for days to come.
Naughty Nuri’s Warung and Grill
Jl. Raya Sanggingan (Across the road from Neka Museum)
Ubud, Bali
Phone: (361) 977547
Open Daily: 8AM-10PM
Memoirs of the affair to be continued…
—
The post My Love Affair with Bali (Bali Series: 1st of 3 Parts) appeared first on Between Bites - Bites of Food, Travel and Lifestyle.